Just returned from a 6 day trip to Paris. As I was preparing for this trip during the last 3 months, I spent a lot of time on Tripadvisor reading, asking questions etc. Thanks to all for your excellent input and advice. I apologize in advance for the length of this trip report.
Just a little background...I was travelling with my 70 year old mother (who has been to Paris before, but for only a short trip during which she saw only a few of the highlights),and also with my sister-in-law who has never been to Paris. I myself have been twice before for a total of 2 weeks, but hadn%26#39;t been back since 2001. This trip was a birthday gift to my mother as well as an opportunity to visit my daughter who now lives and works in Paris. Because our visit included a holiday (Labor Day on May 1), my plan was to try to visit all the %26quot;biggies%26quot; before Friday, take a day trip on Friday when all the museums would be closed, and spend our last 2 days over the weekend visiting neighborhoods, parks, shopping etc.
April 28: Arrived at 8:00 AM. Flight went smoothly. Weather was mostly cloudy, with some periods of sun as well as brief rain showers. I had arranged for a driver to pick us up from the airport and take us to our apartment in the 15th. (21 euro per person) He was very friendly, pointing out sights as we drove into Paris etc. I had rented the apartment from someone whom I had briefly met 2 years ago...she lives in our town for part of the year and in Paris for the other half. We had struck up a conversation about Paris and she had given me her card because she rents out her apartment when she is not there. The apartment is in a quiet residential area, close to the metro and shopping, and a 15 minute walk from the Eiffel Tower.
Upon arrival, we freshened up, and then went to the Monoprix for breakfast necessities. By shortly after noon we were ready to see Paris. My theory has always been that low key sightseeing and spending lots of time outside that first day is the best way to overcome jetlag. We walked to the Eiffel Tower, but as I had expected, the line was quite long. We decided that since both my mother and I had been up the Eiffel before and my sister-in-law had some issues with height, we wouldn%26#39;t go up. Also as expected, we were continuously accosted by people selling trinkets, but a simple %26quot;non, merci%26quot; worked well. Just a little annoying. We continued our walk across the Seine to the Trocadero, then up Avenue Kleber to the Arc de Triomphe. We did not go to the top because I had hoped to do that after dark some evening because I love the view at night with the Eiffel Tower in the distance, and all the 12 avenues converging etc. (Unfortunately, we never did make it back to do that.) We did purchase our 2 day museum passes there as there was no line. We stopped for a light lunch and much needed coffee at the Deauville (next to Laduree) on the Champs Elysees. It was ok..french onion soup, chicken salad, croque monsieur. It served its purpose: we could people watch, sit out a brief rain shower, and re-energize ourselves. After lunch we continued our stroll down the Champs Elysees to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais. Since the Petit Palais was free, we decided to stop in and check out their permanent collection of paintings..works of %26quot;lesser%26quot; artists and lesser works of famous artists. A nice diversion. Then on to the Place de la Concorde, Les Tuileries, and the Louvre (just the outside as it was Tuesday and closed). By this time it was 6 pm, and we decided to head back to the apartment and freshen up for our 8:00 pm dinner reservation where we would be meeting up with my daughter. At our metro station, we purchased our Navigo Decouverte passes. Luckily I had printed off a previous poster%26#39;s excellent instructions on how to use the machines to get the passes. As I read and speak some french I am sure I would have eventually figured it out, but her instructions made it much easier. We were prepared with our properly sized photos, and cash to use in the machines.
Dinner was at Le Troquet, 21 rue Francois Bonvin in the 15th, metro Segur. It is a small Basque bistrot, packed with locals. The food was excellent. I had a viccysoise (sp?) soup with foie gras, and braised duck that melted in your mouth for the main course. I had intended to write down exactly what everyone ate, and how much it all cost...but ended up never doing that. Ordering le menu was always a better deal than ordering a la carte. I believe our 3 course dinner cost us each 40-45 euros, which included a bottle of wine to share and an additional 5% for tip.
It was midnight by the time we got home and fell into bed exhausted....a very long but enjoyable first day in Paris.
Wednesday, April 29: Up bright and early to get to Notre Dame by 9:30 am. Weather was similar to the previous day. We were in the first group of 20 people to go up the tower when it opened at 10. Great views of Paris, and fun seeing the gargoyles up close. By the time we finished visiting ND, the square was packed with tourists. Again as expected we were continously approached by young women asking us if we spoke english. Very annoying. We visited the archeological crypt just in front of ND, and tried to get into the Deportation museum but it was closed for lunch. The gardens behind Notre Dame were in full bloom, the sun came out and it was just gorgeous. We strolled over to Ile St. Louis and bought some lovely scarves in a small shop there. Too chilly to stop for Bertillon ice cream. We met up with my daughter, headed over the the left bank to see her apartment near the Pantheon, and then a leisurely lunch at a small restaurant nearby. Very local, can%26#39;t remember the name, but good food. It was 3 pm by the time we finished, and we then headed back over to visit St. Chappelle. Waited in line for about 15 min. to get through security, had to check my corkscrew that I happened to be carrying in my purse. Magnificent stained glass windows, very awe inspiring. From there we looked into a couple of shops along Rue de Rivoli before heading down to the Louvre for a very quick look at some of the highlights. (Both my mother and I had been in the past, and my sister-in-Law is not a big art buff) This was a late opening night for the Louvre, so we picked out about 8 or 9 highlights to see and made a bee-line for those. We entered from the Carousel shopping area below, so there was no line to get in. We spent about 1 1/2 hours there, just enough for my sister-in-law to get a taste of the magnificence of this museum. By this time, we needed to get to the restaurant for our 8:30 dinner reservation.
Dinner was at Le Florimond, 19 Ave. de la Motte-Piquet, metro Ecole Militaire. Excellent service, very friendly and helpful waitstaff, and we all had delicious meals. I enjoyed my stuffed veal (with ground pork) and my elegant dessert of vanilla cream, raspberries and champagne mousse. Once again, after stopping to watch the Eiffel Tower twinkle, we didn%26#39;t get back to the apartment until midnight.
Thursday, April 30: We awoke to a beautiful sunny day. Today I had planned for us to do a cooking class with Cooking With Class, a suprise mother%26#39;s day gift for my mother. At 9:30 we met our instructor Pino at a designated metro stop in Montmatre. There was another mother/daughter pair for a total of 6 of us. Pino proceeded to take us through the local markets as we discussed what meal we would prepare. We visited the cheese shop, butcher, fish market, fruits/veg. shop, bakery and we learned a lot about how the French shop, how to choose fresh vegetables, meats etc. Then we proceeded to the school where we prepared our meal, all the while learning interesting tips about seasoning, techniques, presentation etc. We started with a Dourade (mediterranean sea bass) with mussels in a saffron cream sauce. Our main course was lamb with a carmalized onion confit, and an elegant ratatouille wrapped in zucchini, followed by a cheese course, and chocolate mousse for dessert, accompanied by 3 lovely wines. Loads of fun, very delicious, and very informative. It was after 3 by the time we finished. I highly recommend doing a class with this cooking school. They also offer evening classes for dinner, croissant making classes, macaroon classes, dessert classes etc. www.cooknwithclass.com
Afterwards we visited Sacre Coeur, and wandered around Montmatre. It was a beautiful afternoon and there were lots of people out. From there we headed to the Galleries Lafayette for just a quick look at the beautiful interior, and then on to the Musee D%26#39;Orsay, again just for a look at some of the highlights. By this time we were exhausted, had a very light dinner (quiche and salad)in a touristy restaurant near the Eiffel Tower, marvelled at the twinkling Eiffel Tower again before walking back to the apartment at midnight.
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Great report. Cooking class sounds a real treat.
Hope I%26#39;ll be active and still visiting Paris when I%26#39;m !!
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Thanks for the great report.
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I loved reading your trip report, can%26#39;t wait for the rest! I%26#39;m going for the first time in July and signed up for that class with Eric for myself, mother in law and sister in law. I love reading all the great reviews of it, and for my mother in law who has never been to Europe, this is now what she%26#39;s most excited about!! I%26#39;m glad your report is so detailed, very good read! thanks
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I very much enjoyed your report! So was it jacket weather then? Hmm...that cooking class does sound tempting! (fun to learn all these tips and such...). I look forward to the rest of your reports! 8^) Is Le Troquet, 21 rue Francois Bonvin in the 15th one of your daughter%26#39;s favorite restos in Paris?
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Encore Encore. Loved part I..your mom sounds amazing for her age..I%26#39;ll bet she%26#39;s a fun traveling companion. I%26#39;m staying at Hotel Motte Picqet next month and plan a meal at Le Florimond and I%26#39;m so happy to read you enjoyed it. Thanks for such an interesting report.
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Nice report, thanks for posting :-)
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To Cybee, Le Troquet was a new resto for her. I chose it because it was just around the corner from our apartment and knew we would be very exhausted that first night. I had also read lots of good reviews about it. My daughter prefered trying restos she had not yet been to. She loved all of the ones we went to.
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To Saphhire15, Yes my mom is amazing. 70 years old with severe rheumatoid arthritis, and just getting over a bout of shingles, she kept up great with about 15 hours of walking and sightseeing every day, up and down all those metro stairs. I hope I can be as spry and enthusiastic about travel and life in general when I get to be her age.
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What a great report!
How wonderful for 3 generations to explore Paris together, and how nice for your daughter to show off her %26quot;home%26quot; and show you her life in Paris.
What great memories all of you will have.
Thank you for sharing!
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I%26#39;m really enjoying your trip report, thanks for posting. Looking forward to more.
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